(Okra in it's natural habitat, at Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Virginia) - (The Annapolis Valley grown descendants of those okra!)
Choose a full sun, fertile spot, similar to where you'd plant tomatoes or squash. I space mine about 24" apart. By mid summer plants will be bushing out and producing their first blossoms, surprisingly large and beautiful blossoms at that. Flowers are then followed by the pods, usually appearing by August. Pick them when they're small and tender, they get fibrous as they grow.
- Saving Okra Seed -
Okra flowers are self-fertile, meaning they will produce pods and seeds even without pollen from another flower. They do however cross pollinate readily with other okra plants, mainly by way of bees who find the flowers even more attractive than humans do. Isolation of 1 km or more is recommended for purity, but lucky for NS seed savers it's pretty uncommon to have a neighbour growing okra around these parts. If you want to save seed from more than one variety in your garden, flowers can be bagged with any kind of insect-proof barrier before they open, and because they're self fertile they will still produce seed pods.
Allow the pods to fully mature on the plant, until they're brown and starting to split open. Pods will split on their own to release their large round seeds, so once cracks begin to appear in the pod they're ready to pick. I was harvesting lots of dry pods from the garden in mid-September, and later in the season after the first frost knocked back the leaves I cut and hung the whole stalk so the remaining pods could finish maturing inside. Just crack apart the dry pods and shake the seeds into a bowl!
(Mature pods, ready to pick for seed) - (Perfectly dry okra pods, after a few weeks spread to dry in the greenhouse)